September -October 2000 # 20 |
BARCELONA by Michael Garry Smout It was never The Barcelona Reviews
intention to enter the world of tourist information or even to draw too much attention to
the city unless, like Sant Jordi (World Book Day), it was literary oriented. The name,
like the Paris Review (long situated in New York) or Mississippi Review,
came about because this is where we live and where it began. But through much of our
e-mail - some from those who mistakenly surfed to the site looking for hard-to-find
tourist info, but most from readers and subscribers and even some contributors - we have
learned that there is a huge interest in the city, with one of the most frequently asked
questions being:
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September: Here
is possibly the month to see Barcelona. It may be a little battered by
summers heat and scuffed by visitors looking for summer-closed places, but the city
now takes on a new life. For starters all the workers are back, refreshed, knowing that
after a month's break that they don't have to put their noses to the grindstone
immediately as there are loads of public holidays from now until Christmas. The first
holiday is the infamous 11th. This is a pretty much a Catalan nationalist
affair celebrating a massive defeat in bygone times. It can get pretty nasty on the
Ramblas and anything looking Spanish - or, god forbid, from Madrid - is trashed,
including, for some unknown reason, McDonalds. Apart from that little hiccup
everyone is optimistic and therefore this is the time to start new projects or restart the
ones that just missed the June 24th deadline. October: Weather permitting, another fine month to visit. Though watch out for youths in smart but ill-fitting (possibly borrowed) clothes running from language school to language school looking for work. The teaching season starts this month and usually many teachers have found a post the last minute dashing around is partly due to schools, expecting floods of students, overbooking teachers then letting them go at the last minute. If youre new to the game expect to be treated like shit and watch your MA become a worthless piece of paper when youre forced to look after 18-month-old children. The beach now may be a no-no for sunbathing, but it can still be a very warm month with hints of cold air coming from the mountains. There isnt the beautiful blaze of colour you normally get in autumn as most of the leaves died way back in the first weeks of July. But to make up for natures lack of celebration little huts appear in the streets and the owners cook up chestnuts and sweet potatoes on charcoal braziers. The smell is wonderful and pleasantly evocative of autumn, but - my perennial complaint - there is never any butter to go with the yams. The 31st may not be Halloween here, but it is the castanyada, the day of the chestnut, and everyone rushes home for glasses of cava and roasted chestnuts. Its a family affair, but the streets and bars do buzz as the next day is another holiday; it is also the Day of the Dead. __________________________________ Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May Jun. Jul. Aug. Sep. Oct. Nov. Dec
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